Waves crash against Taiwan’s coasts from all sides.
The Pacific Ocean and the Taiwan Strait sandwich this island nation, carving out countless coves, caves, bays, and other geological formations that create wondrous points of solace and exploration.
The capes ofBitoujiao(鼻頭角)andSandiaojiao(三貂角) are Taiwan’s easternmost points on land in Taiwan whose onyx-colored rock has pushed out from the sea after millennia of tectonic convergence.
▲小徑環繞著海岬，向左望可看到龍洞鎮(照片背景)，也就是龍洞岩場的所在地。The trail wraps around both sides of the cape, with the eastern coast looking out towards the neighboring town ofLongdong(龍洞) (seen here in the background)–home of the Dragon Caves (龍洞岩場).(Courtesy of Gregory Thorpe Badrena)由於我從未好好認識坐落基隆與宜蘭中間的鼻頭角，所以我決定加入由新加坡越岩戶外運動訓練有限公司(QxadventuresRock Guides)QX和Kelly帶領的登山團，好好探索一番。擁有多年攀岩和登山經驗的我，是這海岸線的常客，因此我知道領隊會帶我們深入了解沿路的每個角落。這個地方雖然看似雖小，但路徑蜿蜒陡峭，一面是綠色的帶刺植物，另一面則是光滑的岩石及大海。
Being so unfamiliar with the landscapes lying between the city of Keelung andYilan County, I decided to take a trip toBitoujiaowith a group of hiking enthusiasts lead by the Singaporean dynamo QXandKelly ofQxadventuresRockGuides (越岩戶外運動訓練有限公司).
With years of experience rappelling and trekking this coastline, I knew they’d show the group the ins and outs ofthe area — small if you look at a map – but these paths curve, rise, and fall along with the terrain: prickly, green vegetation on one side, smooth black rock, and ocean on the other.
▲步道蜿蜒陡峭，一面是綠色的帶刺植物，另一面則是光滑的黑色岩石及大海。| These paths curve, rise and fall along with the terrain: prickly, green vegetation on one side, smooth black rock and ocean on the other. (Courtesy of Gregory Thorpe Badrena)從鼻頭角的漁村出發，只需行走約五分鐘的上坡路段，即可抵達鼻頭角步道的起點。起初，步道還給人一絲過於「觀光化」的印象，但就在觀景台後方，便有一條鮮少人知、更狹窄的土路步道，可直達最北端的白色燈塔，鼻頭角山。
Heading out of theBitoujiao’sfishing town, it only takes a five–minute uphill walk to reach the scenic trail’s starting point.
It might seem a bit touristy at first, but just beyond the wooden viewing deck lies a much more secluded, thin stretch of dirt path which leads straight to the pearl-white lighthouse at the cape’s northernmost tip — BitoujiaoMountain (鼻頭角山).
▲既低調又狹窄的土路步道能直達最北端的白色燈塔：鼻頭角山。| A dirt path which leads straight to the pearl-white lighthouse at the cape’s northernmost tip – Bitoujiao Mountain (鼻頭角山). (Courtesy of Gregory Thorpe Badrena) 這條小徑環繞著海岬，向左望可看到龍洞鎮，也就是龍洞岩場的所在地，一旁更有一望無際的太平洋。若是你身手既敏捷又勇敢，可以考慮挑戰一條廢棄已久的小路，這條路可通下方幾乎與海平面平行的平坦岩石。不論是俯視燈塔，或是觀賞地下水從岩石縫隙中流出，皆別由一番風味。
The trail wraps around both sides of the cape, with the eastern coast looking out towards the neighboring town ofLongdong(龍洞) — home of the Dragon Caves (龍洞岩場) —the restless Pacific Ocean.
If you are nimble and brave enough, you can take an older, long since abandoned path down to the flat rock formations below, nearly reaching sea leveland providing a unique glance at the lighthouse from below; subterranean water cascading (or trickling) out from the mountain’s bedrock.
▲歷經數千萬年的沉積與侵蝕才得以形成瑪瑙色的岩石。| Onyx-colored rock stretches out into the Pacific, pushed out from the sea after millennia of tectonic convergence.(Courtesy of Gregory Thorpe Badrena)這條步道的重頭戲便是攻上鼻頭角山頂後的美景，山頂石頭的顏色及觸感好似古早味蛋糕，一覽無遺的美景更是震懾人心。繼續往北行走，我們來到步道的最後一個景點，鼻頭角的漁村。漁村的純樸之美，讓我產生彷彿置身蘇格蘭的錯覺。繼續向前行走，步道周圍的灌木愈加茂盛，沿路也偶有幾座觀景台可停下歇息。
The trail’s climax is reachedafter climbingBitoujiaoMountain’s peak, an area where the rock looks strikingly similar and equally smooth to Taiwan’s castella cake (古早味蛋糕), and the 360-degree view of the entire coastline that wraps around the cape is spectacular.
Images of Scotland come to mind when admiring the northern side which leads toBitoujiao’sfishing village, which is precisely the next and final destination of the trek, winding back down through the much thicker brushwith the occasional viewing pavilion.
▲夜晚時，當地的漁船靠著提燈吸引小卷。| Locals’ boats equipped with lanterns to attract squid during the night.(Courtesy of Gregory Thorpe Badrena)步道的盡頭是漁村，漁村依偎著山，行走的同時便能聽到從村中寺廟飄來的音樂，空氣中也帶有線香的香氣。隨著天空從藍轉橘及捕撈小卷船的船燈亮起，夕陽漸漸西下，我也正好趕上車程20分鐘的的公車，前往瑞芳夜市。
The trail ends at the backalleys of the village brushing up againstmountain, ceremonial musicand incense burningfrom the Taoist templecan already beperceivedas wewander through the trail’s finalcurve and steps.The orange skyandbrightlightsfrom thelocals’squid-fishingboatsindicate a setting sun, andI’m just in time for a bus toRuifang’sbustlingnight market just20 minutes away…
